Showing posts with label The Beaten Path. Show all posts
Showing posts with label The Beaten Path. Show all posts

9.30.2016

The Beaten Path, 2016

Leftover snow from a September storm that came through a few days before us.
My husband and I hiked the Beaten Path on September 19th-20. We hiked the entire 26 mile trail in under 32 hours (Whew!) and camped one night on the trail. Hiking in late September could be a little risky, as there could easily be an early snow storm and cold temps. We had watched the forecast closely & were blessed with wonderful spring-like temperatures and lots of sunshine.

I had previously hiked the trail in 2014 and 2015 during mid-July. The first time I spent 3 nights on the trail, the second time I spent 2 nights on the trail, and this third time, I spent 1 night on the trail!

Personally I think only spending 1 night is too rushed; it didn't leave enough time to appreciate the scenery, and its a lot harder on the ole' bones. But it was still very fun.



We pushed hard and hiked fast, while still taking the necessary photo/snack/water breaks along the trail whenever needed. We camped at Dewey Lake, which is about the half way point on the trail.


In a nutshell this was our trip schedule:

A friend met us in the morning at our house and we then caravanned in two cars to East Rosebud, where we left one vehicle in the recreational parking area. Then we all road together in our 2nd vehicle over the Beartooth Pass to the Clarks Fork Trailhead. Our friend dropped us off at around 11:20am. (And then he drove our car back to our house.) All total driving time was around 4hrs.

We were on the trail by 11:30am and we arrived at the camp site at Dewey Lake at around 6pm.
My husband and I made pretty good time. I was very tired by the time we reached Dewey. The last 2.5 of the 12 miles to Dewey we were hiking in a thunder storm. It rained/hailed pretty hard, making the downhill trail pretty slick and got cold. But it slacked off just enough for us to get camp set up and to make a quick Mountain House supper with the JetBoil. We cleaned up our supper mess, hung our food bag, stashed our backpacks, and just as we were crawling into our tent for the night, the storm picked back up. We watched lightening flash and listened to thunder shaking the mountains. It stormed long into the night. Thankfully we stayed pretty dry and warm.

The next morning at around 9am we were ready to hit the trail again. It was partly cloudy with the sun shining - it was beautiful. We took 40min lunch break at Rainbow Lake. We arrived to East Rosebud at around 4pm. I was pretty exhausted and had a few large blisters on my feet. (Even using moleskin!!) My husband didn't get any blisters, but was pretty tired. It felt really good to change out of my hiking boots and into the sandals I had left in the car. I recommend having a change of shoes for the car, regardless of how fast you hike this trail.

Again, here are additional detailed accounts from hiking the Beaten Path in 2015 and 2014.

Below are photos from the hike.
Somewhere along the trail... Heading down to Rainbow Lake.
Just after Impasse Falls. Standing on the edge of the tail, looking down on the lake below. 
Storm clouds chasing us. This is one of the water crossings. In late September the water levels are very low. We rock-hopped across ALL the water crossings and didn't get our shoes wet or had to take them off!
The fall color was beautiful on the East Rosebud side of the hike.
Impass Falls.
Hiking Around Fossil Lake. All the grass had turned golden, it was so beautiful and different from hiking the trail in July, when everything is very fresh and green. 

My husband experienced some mild, but annoying altitude sickness around Fossil Lake.  While Jonny is an extremely active, fit person,  it did slow us down a little bit. 
Just as the storm was starting... (We used the rainflys and black garbage bags to keep our packs dry. It got very pretty dark and the trail was pretty slick in places.)
On the Cooke City side, bears are more of a threat. We saw quite a few large black bear prints right on the trail. 
More fall foliage. 
Jonathan and myself.
Along the final stretch of the hike, descending to East Rosebud through the canyon. 

Almost at East Rosebud, looking back up the canyon. SO BEAUTIFUL! 

If you have any questions, let me know and I'll do my best to answer.

My previous two posts on hiking the Beaten Path have received a lot of comments from fellow hikers - you should read the comments on those posts if you have any questions, and maybe you'll find some answers there.

Below is my list of MUST HAVE hiking gear when I hike the Beaten Path:

  • sleeping bag (my bag is good down to 21 degrees, fahrenheit) 
  • tent
  • sleeping mat 
  • Jetboil & extra fuel tank 
  • proper amount of Mountain House food & high protein snacks
  • rain gear / pants & coat 
  • bear spray & gun 
  • first aid kit (My husband is an EMT, so he packs a very well-rounded kit.)
  • moleskin 
  • water bottle & water filter
  • one change of clothes, extra hiking socks, underwear, plus long underwear & socks for sleeping in
  • bug spray 
  • biodegradable toilet paper and liquid hand-sanitizer 
  • compas & trailmap 
  • flashlight
  • leather-man knife
  •  paracord (for hanging the food bag)
  • a few carabiners 
  • waterproof matches & lighter 
  • beanie (no matter the season), baseball hat & sunglasses 
  • phone, camera & ID
  • spork
  • warm but lightweight coat
  • a small waterproof bag for stashing electronic items
  • a large black garbage bag (for keeping my backpack dry if it rains)

7.18.2015

The Beaten Path, Montana, 2015

Elk Lake, elevation 6800'ft. 








Busy is a choice. Stress is a choice. Joy is a choice. Choose well. 
JUST GO HIKING. 

It has become a yearly tradition to hike "The Beaten Path" once every summer. I hiked it last year - you can read a detailed post about that experience here. 

AHHHHH! I love hiking - getting up into the mountains & total wilderness — feeling like a little ant walking on the earth — the size of these rocks is awesome! Creation is amazing, & God is good. I'm super blessed & thankful to have the health & life that I have. I'm trying to make the most of summer while it lasts!

For by him all things were created, in heaven and on earth, visible and invisible, whether thrones or dominions or rulers or authorities—all things were created through him and for him. Colossians 1:16 


This year I hiked The Beaten Path with 2 friends - We started at the Clarks Fork Trailhead, just past the Chief Joseph Campground on July 16th & finished on the 18th at East Rosebud Lake.

This hike is "approximately" 26 miles long, not counting any side trips off trail. It is a strenuous hike, but not technically difficult or dangerous. It is also a well-traveled path, & perhaps the best way to experience the diversity & beauty of the Beartooths.

If starting at the Clarks Fork trailhead the elevation is 8000'ft - the peak elevation on the trail is just over 10000'ft, & finishing elevation is 6000'ft. You get more downhill hiking starting on the side we did. You hike uphill 90% of the first 10 miles, then from there its like 85% downhill  for the remaining 16 miles. (As opposed to starting at East Rosebud, where you hike a steep long uphill for the first 16 miles.)

In a nutshell: We hiked The Beaten Path in 3 days, 2 nights. The first day (starting at  the Clarks Fork Trailhead, 9:40am), it took us about 9 hours to hike 12 miles to Dewey Lake, our camp site for the night. (10 of the 12 miles were uphill. We hiked about 2mph the first 7 miles, & also took numerous little breaks along the way. Stopped at Russell Lake for about 30min too.) The next morning, it was an easy  7 miles downhill (9am-1pm) to Rainbow Lake & our camp site. The 3rd day we hiked 7 more downhill miles, finishing the hike by 12pm at East Rosebud Lake. We rested for about 40min at Elk Lake on the way.


Impasse Falls - around 300ft tall. 
When hiking the Beaten Path -you will get rained on, no matter what the forecast says. The forecast is hard to predict in the mountains. Two of the 3 days I was hiking were supposed to be "50% chance of rain"; but both those days were sunny. The "20% chance of morning rain" day turned into a wild afternoon thunder storm… The last 2 of the 12 miles we hiked the first day, we were hiking in a hail/sleet thunderstorm. The temperature dropped from mid 60s to low 40s.

Honestly, no one likes hiking in the rain, things get slick! Bring good rain gear so you stay dry & warm! Also, make sure you know what to do if caught on the plateau in a storm. Don't make yourself a lighting target! 

The mosquitoes are bad. Take strong bug repellent.  I brought repellent that was 25% deet, it seemed to work ok, but I still got more bites then I liked. The bugs are blood thirsty up there! They only seemed worse on the higher lakes, near the plateau. The lower we got, towards Rainbow Lake, the fewer they become. (At least during this time of year.)


All around the trailhead (Cooke City side) the bugs were bad. East Rosebud side, no bugs.

Obviously is grizzly country - proper food storage, bear spray & guns are a really good idea, & safety precaution. When I hike, I'm packing a .357 & bear spray. (Better to be safe then sorry!!!) I hang my food at night too.

Last year when I hiked in July - there were still HUGE snow drifts we had to hike over. This year there wasn't ANY snow we had to hike over. (Dryer winter….) Having a walking pole could be helpful for some people. There are 3 major water crossings, & depending on the snowmelt, the water could be over knee deep or you could "rock-hop" across with shoes left on. Hiking in "convertible" short/pants works great, & keeps you dry.

This year water levels were very low, so nothing was very hard to get across. Last year however, the water was almost thigh deep in places, so it was much harder getting across the "rivers" as the current was swift. 

I found it interesting when reading about The Beaten Path in hiking books, "river/lake" crossings were NOT mentioned…. Make sure you pack some water shoes!

There are countless beautiful lakes, several note-worthy waterfalls, endless views & wildflowers galore on this trail. I would suggest taking a longer time to hike The Beaten Path - & setting a camp somewhere near Fossil Lake - from there, there are numerous day hikes & other lakes to hike to.

Here are some pics for you to enjoy!
The trail between Elk Lake & East Rosebud - 3 miles from the finish.
Ouzel Lake, elevation 9445'ft. 
Twin Outlets Lake, elevation 9200'ft.


A well-traveled trail — Saw a good number of other hikers throughout the entire trail, & two horses & some mules along the way. The Beaten Path is a very popular trail, but everyone spreads out on it, so you seldom see other hikers, even though there could be dozens of hikers on the trail. 
My hiking buddies JohnRoss & Jessica! 
Hiking on the beautiful plateau, just past Fossil Lake (elev. 10,000+ft) 


- With storm clouds chasing us! We got stormed on (thunder / hail / rain / sleet) the last 2mi of the 12 miles we hiked the first day. The temperature got down to 42'F. 


Camp site 2nd night at Rainbow Lake.
 We hung our damp clothes out to dry at our camp site.  The storm soaked us pretty good the night before. There are many great camp sites by Rainbow Lake. 

Rainbow Lake, elevation 7700'ft. 
Rainbow lake displays a beautiful blue-green color (often called "glacier milk") indicative of a glacier-fed lake. The water felt wonderful on my tired feet & sore knee. :) 

Hiking around Fossil Lake, elevation 10000'ft. 

If ya have any questions, lemme know in comments below & I'll do my best to answer! 


Some good resources for hiking in or around the Absaroka-Beartooth Wilderness:

Happy hiking,
GB